In short: a cultured pearl is a real pearl, produced by a mollusk that deposits layers of nacre around a nucleus inserted by humans. An imitation, on the other hand, is a sphere of glass, plastic, or shell coated with a pearlescent paint. To distinguish them, one looks at the surface, weight, temperature, and hole; absolute certainty can only be provided by a gemological laboratory.
Natural, cultured, and imitation pearls: the differences
- Natural pearl: forms spontaneously, without human intervention. Today it is very rare and reserved mainly for collectors.
- Cultured pearl: humans initiate the process by inserting a nucleus or a fragment of tissue into the mollusk; everything else, that is, the growth of the nacre layers, is done by nature. It is a real pearl in every respect and is the one used in modern jewelry.
- Imitation: does not originate from a mollusk. It is an artificial object that reproduces the appearance of a pearl with a surface coating.
The varieties of cultured pearls (freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea) are explained in the guide to Akoya, Tahitian, and freshwater pearls and in the LELUNE pearl guide.
5 checks to recognize a real pearl
1. The surface to the touch
By gently rubbing two pearls together, real ones give a slight "gritty" sensation, due to the layered structure of the nacre. Imitations are perfectly smooth, almost slippery.
2. The appearance to the naked eye and with a loupe
Cultured pearls almost always have small irregularities, minimal differences in shape and color between one pearl and another. A strand with pearls that are all identical and perfectly equal should raise some doubts.
3. The weight
Real pearls have a "solid" weight; those made of plastic are noticeably lighter. The comparison is especially effective with cheap imitations.
4. The temperature
Placed on the skin, a real pearl is cool at first and warms up slowly; plastic assumes the temperature of the hand almost immediately.
5. The hole
In imitations, the coating tends to flake or chip around the hole, revealing the underlying material. In cultured pearls, the edge of the hole is clean, and you can glimpse the layers of nacre.
Warning: these tests provide guidance but do not replace professional verification. For a valuable piece of jewelry, or in case of doubt, consult a gemologist or a gemological laboratory. Do not scratch or cut the pearl to "test" it: it will be permanently damaged.
And mother-of-pearl?
Mother-of-pearl is the inner layer of the shell of pearl-bearing mollusks, the same material that gives pearls their luster. It is not a pearl, but a natural material worked separately: in jewelry, it is used for inlays and flat shapes with iridescent reflections. An example is the mother-of-pearl jewelry from the Sidney line.
How to shop safely
- Verify that the product sheet indicates the type and size of the pearl and the metal (for example, 18kt gold or 925 silver).
- Prefer specialized companies that are transparent about who produces the goods and where.
- Be wary of very low prices for long strands of "perfect" pearls.
All LELUNE jewelry indicates the type of pearl used in its description and is made by COSCIA, a company from Torre del Greco specializing in pearls since 1919 and a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council. Discover the 18kt gold and 925 Glamour silver collections, or the LELUNE pearl jewelry page.
How to make a real pearl last
Nacre is sensitive to acids, perfumes, hairspray, and sweat. Put on your pearls last, clean them with a soft cloth after use, and store them separately from other jewelry. All details can be found on the jewelry care page.
Frequently asked questions
Are cultured pearls real pearls?
Yes. They are produced by a living mollusk that forms the layers of nacre; human intervention is limited to starting the process.
Is the "tooth test" reliable?
It is a useful clue, but not definitive proof. For certainty, a gemological analysis is needed.
Are freshwater pearls worth less?
They generally have a more accessible price than Akoya, Tahitian, or South Sea pearls, but they are real pearls and, if well selected, very luminous.
See also: where to buy high-quality pearl jewelry.